Itinerary followed during this Interrail throughout Germany, Denmark and Switzerland

Cologne - Koblenz - Copenhagen - Helsingor - Hillerod - Roskilde - Berlin - Potsdam - Rhine cruise - Freiburg - Strasbourg - Black Forest - Rhine Waterfalls - Schaffhausen - Stein am Rhein - Konstanz - Zurich - Basel - Interlaken - Luzern - Zermatt - Brig - Bern - Geneva - Heidelberg - Munich - Dachau - Fussen - Nuremberg - Rothenburg (ODT) - Wurzburg - Jungfrau and Lauterbrunnen - Brienz - Geneva

We went from Heidelberg to Munich in less than 5 h. and several changes of trains, such as in Stuttgart or Ulm , that are interesting cities that we left behind. We gathered with 5 friends that came directly to Munich with the purpose if knowing the Bavarian region. Although it is a rule that the more people together the less you visit, we understood each other perfectly and we lose little time.
It is impossible to visit Germany without staying in Bavaria. It almost constitutes a country, and it shows a huge economic power. It is famous because of the nature, the castles, the old villages and, of course, the beer. Munich is the most visited city of Germany.

In Munich there is a mixture of modernity and history. Although it is a cosmopolite city with an important industrial component composed by companies like BMW, Siemens or Adidas, it never forgets the traditions and it is full of calm green spaces. The German economic success, reflected in the suites and cars, coexists with the tranquillity that envelops this city at the Alps feet, inviting to walk and relax. Of course that such an economically powerful city brings an opposite and alternative movement, that you will notice, although it is not so strong compared to Berlin . Not everything is going to be yuppies with BMWs and Porsches. This city has a huge cultural offer, with an students district or even a "cinema city" where most German movies are filmed.

Henry the Lion founded the city in 1158 around the bridge over the river Isar to charge a toll and to detour the salt traffic. The city took its name from the monks (in German, "Munchen") that previously owned this territory. On next year it was the capital of Bavaria , as Louis the Severe installed his court and family here. His descendants, the Wittelsbach, reigned for 738 years from 1255, enriching the city, attracting many lords and artists. Each successor imprinted their mark on the city. A great fire in 1327 destroyed it, and it was reconstructed by Louis of Bavaria, the second founder o the city. During the 16 th century the Wittelsbach, eager to acquire an important role in Europe , became a catholic bastion positioning against Luther's ideas, so Munich gained the name of "the Germanic Rome". They obtained the Papa's support and they avoided the emancipation of the bourgeois classes, that in general were protestants. As a result of this, Baviera is now the most catholic region in Germany . But it was no easy then. During the 30 Years War the city was occupied by Swedish troops and later the plague killed two thirds of the population. At the beginning of the 18 th century the Austrians and in the 19 th century Napoleon occupied Munich . In 1806 Napoleon appointed his ally Maximiliam IV Jose as king of Bavaria and Munich as its capital. Munich was renewed by means of Louis I, a passionate of olden days that brought many neo-classic artists. They followed Maximiliam II, that supported literature and Louis II, that moved away and ordered the construction of marvellous castles as his residence. Next kings also contributed to the artistic flourishing. In fact, Paul Flee and Kandinsky, together with the group called "the Blue Knight", founded in 1911, would be vitals for the apparition of the abstract art. Besides, Einstein studied here.
Oddly, Hitler tried the painting here for two years. When he realice of his limitations, he decided to enter the army in 1914 for I World War, despite he was declared useless for the service. He returned defeated, with injuries on his face due to gases, and that feed a vengeance thirst. Two years after the war Hitler founded in Munich the Nationalsocialist party. In 1923, together with other leaders, attempted a coup of State from Munich against the government to impose a dictatorship. The Coup failed and Hitler was jailed for 5 years, period that he used to write his "master book" Mein Kampf (My Fight). But this failed attempt gave him in the future a quick promotion in the party. Once he reached the leadership of the party, Muncih was proclaimed the capital for the nationalsocialist movement. The Führer aimed at great constructions in the city but the war avoided it. The ally bombings destroyed most of the city and historical monuments. The allies entered Munich in 1945. From the period of Munich as the favourite of Hitler there are no rests left. Eastern refugees and foreign workers populated the city. During the 50´s it bet on industry, electronics (Siemens), computers and aeronautics. The tourism, fashion, beer or finances contributed to the new face of Munich , which allowed the city to be selected for Olympic Games in 1972. These games are reminded by the sad attack of Palestine terrorist group "Black September", that killed 11 Jewish athletes. Nowadays Munich is a prosper city, the third in size of Germany (more than a million inhabitants) after Berlin and Hamburg.

To visit the city you have to move through several areas where the interesting points are situated, and sometimes they are far from the centre. Anyway there are several options to move, such as underground, bus or trams, very well organised.
I start with the museums, because they were the first thing that we visited. There are two eclipsing the rest: the Deutsches Museum and the Art Gallery.

The Deutsches Museum is impressive, one of the biggest world-wide, receiving two million visitors annually. It is the most important Sciences and Transport museum in Europe . The covered fields are very varied and it is highly recommendable to make a plan before finding you lost through the endless floors and halls. You will walk among cars, trains, planes, submarines, ships, rockets and space capsules.

They keep historical objects, as Gutenberg print, Leibnitz´s calculator, the first phone, the first diesel motor, the first X-ray machine and many more. There are very interactive zones to facilitate the understanding and make the visit enjoyable. The time passes quickly and I would recommend to estimate half a day for this long visit.
The Art Gallery is one of the most famous worldwide. There are two. The old Art Galley keeps on of the most important classic art collections, almost comparable to the Louvre or El Prado. Louis I founded it in 1826. Durero, Botticelli, Rafael, Tintoretto, Tiziano, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Rembrandt, El Greco, Velázquez, Murillo, etc. As the new Art Gallery is concerned they cover the two last centuries. Despite ther are not many master pieces or art, you find distinguished painters such as Goya, Delacroix, Monet, Manet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Munch, etc.

A little far away, we visited the Nymphenburg castle , built in the 17th century and modified through two centuries, that was the Wittelsbach´s residence. It is surrounded by romantic landscapes, lakes, channels, hedges, swans and gardens. In front of the castle a lovely pond gives charm to the castle. At the back side there are huge gardens imitating Versailles ones, with several superbly decorated pavilions, like the neo-classic Amalienburg pavilion.

The route through the inside brought us elegant and exquisitely decorated rooms, such as the luxurious Parties room, the room were Louis II of Bavaria was born or the beauties gallery. In addition the castle includes some museums located at the wings. The most outstanding is the carriages exposition. Don't miss the Louis II Rococo buggy, covered in gold.

Afterwards we headed towards the Olympic Park , not far from the castle. The Park is surprising, as it is considered one of the best designed olympic parks in history. It is a huge ground built for 1972 Olympic Games, with walks, gardens, channels and lakes. The sports facilities roofs are very original, a kind of synthetic spider's web. This complex has been recycled and it is used for other activities: university city , expositions, concerts, sports and of course soccer.

The Olympic Stadium is the field of Bayern Munich, the most important German team. We liked it very much although we would have desired to see it full.

We also entered the Olympic swimming pool, feeling much envy when watching people taking baths and jumping from diving boards.
We went up to TV tower, 290 m. high, that turns around itself, completing the circle each hour. Incredible panorama over the Alps, the Olympic Villa and Munich. We went down an we ate at some tables in the park to go on walking.

The English Garden is an enormous park (one of the biggest world-wide) to have la relaxant walk. It is very odd seeing some surfers with their neoprene suits surfing over the Eisbach stream, in a point where a wave is formed. The gardens have several Biergartens and elegant restaurants spread. As we found the Biergarten closed, we had to eat in one of these restaurants. Surprisingly it resulted a good dinner and not expensive.

As the old city is concerned, the Virgin Mary Square (this is another remind of the catholic past) is outstanding. It is the administrative and tourist centre of Munich . It was an ancient medieval market, and nowadays the traditional feasts are held here. In the middle of the square we find the Virgin column (erected during the 17th century to remind the end of the payment to the Swedish troops during the occupation in 1632) and the Fishes fountain (19th century).
The New city hall calls the tourist attention quickly. This 19th century neogothic building has a facade charged with sculptures and with an 85 m. high tower. On the top it can be distinguished the famous altar boy, symbol of the city.

We liked the mobile clock very much, with several characters appearing at some exact hours that represent two scenes, a tourney in honour of the wedding of Duke William during the 16th century or a coopers dance celebrating the end of the plague. We ascended to the top of the tower to contemplate the amazing views over the city and the Alps.
The old town hall is more discrete but we also liked it, its 15th century gothic facade and the slender tower.

Our Lady´s cathedral , from 15th century and late gothic style is unmistakable due to its two 100 m. high towers and their bulbs at the top. Inside you find the tomb of Louis I of Bavaria.
The street market called Virktualienmarkt is worth a visit, as it is the most typical of Munich.

There are two interesting churches. Saint Michael was erected at the end of 16th century, in a Renaissance style. From the interior we can emphasize several bavarian king tombs and the huge vault, that seems to be the second in width worldwide, after Saint Peter in Rome. It was one of the first churches built in Germany by the Jesuits.

Saint John Nepomucene is the other church, created by Asam brothers . It is a small private rococo chapel from the 18th century and inspired in the Italian Baroque. It is an impressive whole, with a very and absolutely imaginative and overelaborated decoration. It belonged to these two designers brothers, who were both architects, one of them a sculptor and the other a painter.
We go on walking at the city through nice gates like the Sendlinger gate (vestige of the ancient wall from the 14 th century), tasting more churches, squares that are symbols of the city richness, and of course the great atmosphere and shops of all sorts.

Near the city centre it is situated the Wittelsbach palace or Residenz . On its origins it was a 14th century castle, but the Bavaria lords transformed it into a palace that throughout the years have been modified by the different successors, so many styles are present: Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassic are joined in this building that in 1944 was seriously damaged. It is a complex with chambers, a theatre, museums, yards and concert halls that you have to visit separately. We highlight the Antiquarium, the Treasure room and the theatre.

The tiny theatre from 18th century is a master Rococo work of art, where Mozart performed for the first time Idomeneo and where nowadays many concerts and operas are held.
The Treasure room has a collected collection form 16th century of incalculable value. Very luxurious jewellery and objects destined to kings and lords amazed us. Lots of gold, silver and diamonds. Impressive Saint George defeating the dragon.

The museum includes some palace chambers, emphasising several rooms such as artificial cave, the Antiquarium (parties hall from the end of the 16th century, in a roman style), the Louis I chambers, the king rooms or the throne hall.

As food and drink is concerned, Munich and Bavaria have been perhaps the best places in Germany . Not only because of the food quality and variety but also for the plenty of locals everywhere. We tasted many sorts of food and beer.

The Biergarten requires an special mention, as a paradise for those who like beer. They a re gigantic and authentic beer pubs with an exceptional and cheerful atmosphere, that often includes life orchestras, and with a capacity for thousand clients on several floors. We stayed in several of them. There is one that we would describe as compulsory if you visit Munich . The Hofbrahaus is the world most famous beer pub, founded in 1589.

Imagine the situation. The typical waiter or low-cut waitress with the regional clothes and several huge mugs on each hand. The picturesque orchestra with also typical clothes life is performing. The hubbub of youths here gathered. The litre mugs.

The long tables that you share with people that you don't know. The salted bread that makes one feel more and more thirsty. The salted pork leg with choucrout coming from 6 centuries of tradition. Suddenly you hear a muddle and all he sights are focused in its origin. A German stands up over a table with a one litre mug on his hand. Surrounding people start to clap with rhythm and to cheer him up. The mug contacts his mouth and in some seconds the mug is empty. Indescribable, you have to see that. Another Biergarten that we liked very much was open-air and their speciality was grill meat. You can't imagine how much I ate this night.

Besides the Biergarten the taverns are not much expensive and the atmosphere again fantastic. They are also very frequented by students some cafes called Kneipes, that allow you to eat, have breakfast or simply have a drink. The food uses to be Italian, but also Bavarian. At the sight of the broad range of possibilities that Bavarian possesses as far as amusing is concerned, they prefer to stay in any of these options rather than going to discos (although of course there are many discos).

During the year there are many festivals, that reflects the open and friendly open-nature of Bavarians. The most important festival is the Oktoberfest, from middle September to the first Sunday of October. Probably it is the most well known festival in Germany. The Beer Festival is not held at taverns, but in huge tents prepared for this occasion. It is a feast, a complete hubbub, an inimitable atmosphere, with millions of throats singing and vociferating, people eating sausages and meat without stop, and of course enjoying millions of litres of excellent beers.

It has been estimated that each year the city is crammed with 6 million visitors. However, don't forget that this exceptional festival is full of folklore, parades, activities and concerts that you will enjoy as well.
As for accommodation, we had reserved it previously because we heard that there are many problems to find it in many dates throughout the year, as a consequence of multiple fairs and tourism. It was a cheap and correct pension for our purposes.

I have told little about cultural offer because there are so many things to be explained before, but if you have interest on that, you will find many theatres, classic music concerts and expositions of all sorts. In modern districts you can find more alternative art.
Munich is ideal as starting point for excursions to the concentration camp of Dachau or the castles. Only if you plan to visit the city, you should calculate 3-4 days. The more you stay the more you will appreciate the fantastic atmosphere of the city.