Interrail throughout Italy

Milan - Padua - Verona - Venice - Florence - Saint Gimignano - Sienna - Pisa - Naples - Pompei - Amalfi Coast - Capri - Assisi - Rome - Tivoli - Monaco

Milan is the second town in Italy as for population, but the first as for economic activity. It is located in the region of Lombard , and it is a really cosmopolitan city. If you like shopping this is your paradise, as all the possible brands are grouped at the surroundings of the cathedral's square. Milan is worth a visit mainly because of the big cathedral.
It was our first stop after the night trip from Spain (Hendaye-Ventimiglia-Milan). We had a busy travel, with annoying and bad-mannered people. I don't use to complain, but along this first journey we had many happenings. This is the price you have to pay if you want to travel in a budget but, as it is the beginning of an exciting trip, you receive it in a good mood.

After the Naples' Roman past, I jump until 1162, when Frederick Barbarossa wanted to impose his sovereignty on Milan. The city refuses the proposal and Barbarossa devastated it. Milan, with the support of the Lombard League would take revenge in 1176 in the battle of Legnano, where the emperor had to recognise the city's privileges. During the three next centuries many intern disputes happened, but they couldn't avoid that the city experienced an industrial and financial height that allowed becoming an artist centre with the stays of Bramante or Leonardo Da Vinci. During the 16th century it suffered from the Spanish domination, harmful in the beginning but beneficial later for the city's activity. In 1802 it was the capital of the Italian Republic and in 1805 it became the capital of the kingdom. After the Napoleon's fall the Austrians tyrannized the town until 1859, when it joined the Piamonte and became the economical capital of the Italian kingdom. During the 19th century an intense industrialisation and demographic growth took place. In 1919 Mussolini founded the Italian Fascios that until 1922 expulsed and assaulted the workers and parties of Milan . Mussolini tried the military march over Rome in 1922 without finding any resistance. The king Victor Manuel III and the Chamber gave him full powers. During the Second World War there was a tenacious resistance across the Northern Italy, leaded by Milan. After the war, the huge productivity of the city placed it in an international competitive position.

We arrived at noon and in the afternoon we walked through the city centre. We were impressed with our first contact with the cathedral ("duomo" in Italian), a huge mass crowned with hundreds of pinnacles and statues. At dusk the sunrays hit directly the facade, making it spectacular. They close the temple very early in the evening so we came back on next morning.

The visit to the cathedral requires of one morning. It was started in 1386 and finished in 1814!! The building is made of marble and has a Latin cross floor with 5 naves and a transept with 3 naves. It was a gigantic task where numerous architects, craftsmen and sculptors from Lombard and other nationalities worked together. This mixture of cultures has given a proper and singular Gothic style to the cathedral.
It is possible to see some excavations carried out under the temple, as important rests are being discovered, such as the Paleochristian baptistery from 287 A.C. where Saint Austin was baptized, the Roman baths from 1st century or a basilica from 4th century.

Don't miss the roof of the cathedral to see from close the pinnacles and to enjoy the fantastic sightseeing of the city and the square.
The spire that crowns the dome raises up to 108 m. high, and it is a famous sculpture at the top, the popularly "Madonnina".

From the roof you contemplate a wide town, quite ugly and obscure.
After the slog and in view of the hot weather you are grateful to have a cool drink or even to eat in some of the terraces across the cathedral's square.

The square is broad and you can go on enjoying the cathedral from a seat under the shadow. There is some fast food locals for tight budgets with terraces to rest for a while. We liked especially one of these brands that sell pizza in pieces. In addition, from this position we observed the people passing with their fashion clothes, in fact Milan is one of the capitals as fashion is concerned. If you pay attention it is easy to check the shameless nature of the Italians if a nice looking girls passes near them. And this custom is similar across the whole country. The Italians group in herds to hunt women.

The square is full of pigeons. At the beginning it is amusing. At the end it is more like the Hitchcock's movie "Birds". In fact, if the clients in the terraces get distracted or leave the meal rests on the table, a cloud of pigeons invaded the place and the food remaining started to fly. We witnessed one of these attacks from very close.
In the place it is worth the elegant gallery of Victor Manuel II, crowded with shops.
In Milan you meet people from many countries that contribute to the cosmopolitan air of the town. We checked the influence of Milan in fashion, as the wide belts over the waist that the girls were wearing then, appeared short after in Spain.

During the afternoon we went to other interesting spots, such as the famous theatre of "La Escala" , the convent of Saint Mary of the Grace (that keeps the Leonardo's picture "The Last Supper" ) or the Sforza's castle .
This castle belonging to the Sforza's family was ordered in 1450. It is a powerful stronghold of 4 tower located on the corners. Look at the terrible way they drive, although I have to say that in the north is where they do it better.

If you have the time don't miss the "Last Supper" of Leonardo Da Vinci, that now is in fashion after the success of the Dan Brown's best seller "the Da Vinci Code". I am going to talk about this painting because I found its story absolutely captivating.
It is his most famous work together with the Mona Lisa, and one of the well-known throughout the history. The Duke of Milan Ludovico the Moor ordered it. He wanted it for the monastery of Saint Mary of Grace, that he had turned into the Sforza's familiar chapel. The duke used to go for supper every Thursday with the abbot, and he asked Leonardo for adorning the dinner hall with a fresco. Leonardo painted it from 1495 to 1497. The composition has resulted crucial and his success is based on the psychological strength of the scene.

At the table of the "Last Supper" Jesus doesn't celebrate the Eucharist, as it was traditional until then among the painters. There is no Holy Grail, nor hosts nor bread to share. The event in the wall represented the chapter 13th of the Saint John gospel, when Jesus says "one of you will betray me". Leonardo breaks with the tradition. Each disciple reacts in a different way in view of these words (that contrasts with the calm and stability that Jesus transmits), that allows Leonardo a complete study of the human behaviours: the anger, the surprise, the dude.the guilt. Judas is not located at the extreme as usual, but in the middle near Peter and John and without talking to anyone. Not only that. The habitual way to organize such a big group in a horizontal freize was to place two groups of 6 people at both sides of Jesus. Leonardo emphasizes Christ with a window behind him instead of the sanctity aureole. The window allows seeing the landscape, and the light enhances his figure. The lineal table is another innovation, as the table used to be round or square.
He chose human models for the characters. He had problems to start the painting as he didn't find a model for Jesus, with a face reflecting purity, nobility and the most beautiful feelings. In addition he wanted a man with a strong virile attractive. Finally he found such a person and he was the first figure painted. He painted later the 11 apostles, and he left Judas for the end, as he didn't found the ideal model. This character should possess a mature age and show in the face the traces of the betrayal and the avarice. After a time Leonardo found him.
The supper keeps many confusing details and for the decoding lovers the work hides an awesome occult message. Many writers have taken advantage of this to create many stories.

One of the strongest controversies is about John. Leonardo had painted the apostle not leaned against the Jesus' chest, but isolated from Jesus and thin haired, with the head inclined in a submission sign and the hands crossed. Exactly the same position that Leonardo used for the women in his pictures. Who is really this character? He is very feminine to be an apostle, isn't it? Is it Maria Magdalene or the young John?
And look at the hand holding the knife, which doesn't seem to belong to any apostle, that is located at the back of Judas and that many people think that belongs to Peter. Who is really the owner? What does it mean? Why the threatening knife points to John? The sketches of this arm, drawn by Leonardo and kept at the Windsor castle prove that it is Peter's arm. What did Leonardo wanted to tell with this fact? Why Peter hides the knife and seems to rush towards John's neck? Which is the deep meaning? May it be the fight between the Peter's supporters (the material Church, Rome) and John's supporters (the Free Spirit Church, that preached for centuries heresies like the "Cathar faith", that Leonardo may follow)?
Other interesting point is that Leonardo had his portrait painted in the scene, but turning his back on Jesus! How can we understand this symbol? Why the master locates clearly against the official statements of the Church? It was an irreverent position in those ages, when they had to be careful to avoid provoking the "Inquisition" and ending in a bonfire as a heretic. And who are the figures that surround Leonardo and turn his back as well? The disciples are portraits of important celebrities of the period and they don't keep a sanctity aureole. Leonardo painted them human on purpose.
Why the second apostle on the left is identical to Jesus, even in the clothes? Is Leonardo suggesting the belief that Jesus had a twin brother?
In conclusion, it is worth a stop in Milan, to see at least the cathedral and the Last Supper. One day is enough to enjoy this city.